During our first visit to Iceland we opted to trek across the Hornstrandir nature reserve.
The Hornstrandir trek was possibly one of our favorite treks across any continent we visited. Hornstrandir combines a primordial natural power that feels as though you are transported to prehistoric times.
We don't recommend the Hornstrandir nature reserve treks for inexperienced travelers. Hornstrandir lacks antennas that provide cellular connection, and its trails can be very lightly marked if at all.
If you dare to traverse its wilds and hardships, Hornstrandir will offer a once in a lifetime experience, breathtaking views and unforgettable trails.
The Shortest Version
3 days +1 morning
Go during the end of July or start of August.
Getting there and back - charter a boat from ísafjörður to Hornvik using West Tours
Day 1 Part 1 - Boat from ísafjörður to Hornvik
Day 1 Part 2 - Round trip from Hornvik to the Horn and back.
Day 2 - Hornvik to Álfsfell
Day 3 - Álfsfell to Hesteyri
Day 4 - Boat back to ísafjörður
Talk to the tourist center at ísafjörður and buy a map of the area.
Pack light and bring a GPS device or phone and a power bank.
The Short Version
Question: When?
Answer: The best time to trek across Iceland in general is during the summer months (June - August). We made the journey towards the end of August. During our trip the weather was overall fair but we could feel the season ending and the trail conditions growing more difficult.
Question: How many days?
Answer: 3 (+ a morning ferry ride back to the mainland). There are options from a single day visit to the Horn and up to two weeks. The average multi-day treks are between 3-6 days. We crossed the Hornstrandir reserver in a 3 day trek.
Question: Trekking Hornstrandir in four days?
Answer:
Day 1 - start at ísafjörður, from there take a two hour boat to Hornvik. From Hornvik you can trek back and forth to the Horn.
Day 2 - Walk from Hornvik to Álfsfell
Day 3 - Walk from Álfsfell to Hesteyri
Day 4 - Take a boat back to ísafjörður from the docks at Hesteyri
Question: How many Kilometers?
Answer: 45km (28mi)
Question: How difficult is the trail?
Answer: We would recommend trekking doing multi-day treks for experienced travelers only. Some parts of the trail are not well marked and depending on the season certain parts might become muddy and difficult or even dangerous and slippery.
Question: What are the trail conditions?
Answer: During summer the trail is rocky and mountainous but even then this can change daily depending on the chaotic Iceland weather. Outside of the few hotter summer months the trails are muddy or even dangerous.
Question: Are there necessities?
Answer: Hornstrandir has many camping areas with amenities such as a bathroom a sink with running water and a clear smooth ground to raise a tent. Most camps have an SOS hut with equipment to call for help and shelter in case of rough conditions. That said, don’t expect to find any place to buy food or find lodging.
Question: How do you get to the reserve and back?
Answer: The only ways to get the the Hornstrandir reserve and back are by boat. The main town with boat access to Hornstrandir is Ísafjörður which has boats a number of times a week from companies such as West Tours.
Question: Is it worth it?
Answer: YES!
The Long Version
The Best Time to Visit Hornstrandir
The best season to visit Hornstrandir would be during the summer months of June through August. During this time, the days are long and the weather is generally mild, making it the ideal time for hiking and exploring the area's rugged wilderness. Additionally, the summer months are the best time to spot a wide variety of wildlife, including seabirds, puffins and Arctic foxes.
During the earlier summer months the Arctic foxes will be mostly in their burrows. The foxes mating season is March and April and gestation takes just under two months. Because of this, most fox pups are born during the summer months when weather conditions are warmer.
Icelandic authorities ask that you stay away from their burrows and allow them to rest and grow. The pups start leaving their burrows when the summer draws to an end towards the middle of August. During that time the fox pups can be seen wandering all over the nature reserve, even coming close to see people walking the reserve.
During Iceland's summer the sun sets very late which allows walking in full sunlight as late as 9-10PM. Thanks you the long hours of daylight we were able to take out time, enjoy stops to rest and eat at waterfalls and rivers on the way and enjoy the views.
An added bonus of the extended days is a longer than usual sunrise and sunset, coloring the sky in splendid colors or red orange and blue for durations of more than two hours at a time.
We started our three day journey at the 20th of August. During that time the weather was fair, we didn’t have any heavy rains, but the ground was muddy, the temperature cold and we had strong winds which made the journey more difficult.
Trail Length and Options
There are many trails you can take across the Hornstrandir reserve and there is no time limit on how long you can stay in the reserve. Many websites such as All Trails provide overviews on some of the other trails. You can book guided tours that will ensure you have a guide and all the provisions and equipment you need through one of Iceland’s many adventure tour companies.
Our trip across Hornstrandir was three days. For us, this was the perfect amount of time for our first visit to the reserve, allowing a taste of the different sites and the primal feel of the amazing landscape while leaving us wanting more.
Getting There and Back Again
The most common way to reach Hornstrandir is by taking a chartered boat trip from Ísafjörður, which is the capital of the Westfjords region. The ferry trip takes about 2 hours and runs multiple times a day during the summer months.
Keep in mind that once you reach Hornstrandir, there are no roads or infrastructure and the only way back will be on the same boats at their scheduled intervals, so you'll need to be self-sufficient and come prepared with all necessary camping and hiking gear, as well as food and water. Additionally, make sure to check the weather forecast and be prepared for unpredictable weather conditions as it can change rapidly in Iceland.
Boats do not leave Ísafjörður every day and they don’t stop in all anchor points on the nature reserve every time the make a round. It's a good idea to book your ferry tickets in advance and make sure your planned trek lines with the the times and days the boats reach your destinations. In addition, during summer months boats fill up quickly as the number of trips per day is limited during the peak season.
We books places ahead of time on the boat using West Tours company. The boat departed from the Ísafjörður docks. There is parking readily (and freely) available near the docks themselves. We recommend leaving anything you don't need on your adventure in the cars trunk.
Trekking Across Hornstrandir in Four Days
During the winter months most signs indicating the trails of Hornstrandir are wiped out and need to be set again by the rangers and volunteers when spring and better weather arrives. Because of this, the trails are usually only lightly marked and you will need to use map markers, basic sense and navigational skills to find the safest way through the reserve. We highly recommend you consult the Ísafjörður tourist center and the rangers that are active at the Hornstrandir reserve to get the best information and latest updates for safe travel.
Day 1
Take the Ferry From Isafjörður to Hornvik
The ferry journey from Ísafjörður to Hornvik is a scenic trip that takes you through the stunning fjords of western Iceland. The ferry departs from the port of Ísafjörður, which is located in the Westfjords region of Iceland. The journey to Hornvik takes about 3-4 hours, depending on the specific ferry and weather conditions.
As you set sail from Ísafjörður, you'll be treated to views of the surrounding mountains and fjords. The ferry will pass by a number of small islands and steep cliffs, many teeming with wildlife. Along the way, you may have the opportunity to spot seals, whales, and a variety of seabirds, including puffins, guillemots, and kittiwakes. The ferry will also pass through a number of narrow fjords, offering breathtaking views of the steep cliffs
The ferry journey from Ísafjörður to Hornvik was a great way to experience the natural beauty of Iceland and get an idea of what the country has to offer.
During our trip the boat still room for approximately sixteen people and even though we made the trip towards the end of the season with far fewer people than normal, the boat was still more than half full. Considering boats do not leave every day for all destinations and lining up boat schedules offering trips to and back from the reserve that fit your planned trip may reduce your options, we highly recommend booking these boats as much in advanced as possible to ensure you have a reserved spot.
Hornvik to Horn and Back
The path from Hornvik to the Horn at Hornstrandir is a challenging hike that takes you through some of the most beautiful and remote wilderness in Iceland. The trail starts in Hornvik peninsula. The peninsula itself is breathtaking, massive and void of nearly any technological infrastructure so you really will feel as though you have traveled to prehistoric times.
Hornvik itself has a (relatively) large camp ground with few amenities, mainly a sink that gets water from a stream nearby, a rangers hut and grounds properly marked for tents. At this camping ground you will also usually see some larger permanent tents, kept by companies offering glamping tours to the peninsula, lined in neat rows which are available for anyone that wants to visit the peninsula in comfort.
Once you arrive at Hornvik, the trail begins by winding through the relatively flat peninsula. You should follow the beach towards the mountains to your left, eventually leading to the base of the Horn mountain. The trail then becomes steeper as you begin to climb the mountain, and the terrain becomes more rocky and rugged. The trail is relatively well marked, while even without following the many paths leading up the to the mountains of the peninsula, the simplest marker is the cliff you are aiming to reach at the very tip of the left side of the peninsula.
We started in the grassy plain of the peninsula closer the the beach. There wasn't a specific trail marking our path, which is the common occurrence in the reserve, so we followed one of the many trails created by hikers who made their way in the weeks and months before us and started off.
The trail quickly veers towards a large river bed with smaller streams of water. This should be taken note of as on the way back these small streams with many areas to pass become larger streams with strong flowing water once the tide comes in and may be dangerous. Try and find an area you feel will be potentially narrower and safe to cross even if the water rises and mark this for your return journey.
Most of the first half of the journey will include very few inclines as you hug the mountainside on the inner peninsula and walk along the beach and lower portions of the mountain. We passed a number of smaller waterfalls and areas chock full of driftwood that offered fantastic places to stop and enjoy a brief lunch.
Along the way, you'll have the opportunity to see some of the unique flora and fauna of the area, including Arctic foxes, reindeer, and a variety of seabirds. Animals dont tend to come near travelers in the region so don't expect many close encounters with the wildlife. On the plus side, due to Icelands relative exclusion and many months of cold weather, Iceland is void of snakes and mosquitoes making traveling the wilderness a more relaxing experience.
Along the way we spotted a number of homes decorating the view, these belong to people and families of Icelanders that live part of the year in the nature reserve. While they are unique in the scenery and you will walk through some of their land, please be considerate as these are peoples homes and should be treated as such with respect.
As we continued to climb, the views become increasingly spectacular, with panoramic vistas of the surrounding fjords and mountains. The last part of the climb will be a zigzagging trail took us up from approximately the middle of the mountains height all the way to the top and a tiring march. The trail eventually reached the summit of Hornstrandir's Horn, which offers a breathtaking view of the entire Hornstrandir wilderness. We recommend hiking near the top and enjoying your well earned success, taking some pictures.
For the brave we also recommend crawling carefully and peering over the edge of the cliff. The Horn’s cliff is a 500 meter sheer drop into the ocean.
If you intend to get some amazing pictures and videos using a drone - please note that the seabirds in the area can become territorial and attack your drone so be ready to bring it back quickly if you see birds starting to circle it.
The trail is around 10-15km round trip and can take around 6-8 hours depending on your pace, it's considered challenging and requires a good level of fitness and experience in hiking.
It is important to note that although as mentioned before, the days are longer and there is sunlight until much later, we took our time on the return journey and returned the the peninsula around 8-9PM. During this time the waters had begun to rise from the tides and many of the smaller streams we could hop over became larger and more dangerous, forcing us to find shallower areas that only reached our knees. Be careful when crossing any streams that you can identify how deep they are and how powerful the current is.
At the end of the day you can raise a tent at the Hornvik camping area. While it is advised that you don't stray too far away from the camp area with your tent, there are many fantastic spots near streams, the ocean or on soft comfortable clear patches you can easily find a place to sleep. The camping area also offers picnic tables and a sink.
Since you will be starting and ending your hike for the first day at Hornvik, its possible and many travelers do in fact leave their bags at Hornvik before scaling the Horn. This will make your trip much easier without all the excess weight though we advice taking water, some food and anything of greater value with you.
If you are short on time and only want to spend one day at the Hornstrandir nature reserve, its possible to camp at Hornvik and take the boat back the next morning.
If for any reason you want to end the trip early (not due to an emergency), it is possible to take a boat from any point its available without booking in advance so long as they have room available. During the summer months this will not always be an option as most days just one boat will pick up and drop off travelers to and from all docks at the nature reserve so make sure to book as far ahead as possible.
At Hornvik some companies also offer glamping options, it's important to note that availability of glamping options in Hornvik and Hornstrandir may vary depending on the season, it's advisable to check the availability and prices in advance and book your accommodation accordingly.
Day 2
Hornvik to Álfsfell
The trail from Hornvik to Álfsfell is a moderate to challenging hike that takes you through some of the most beautiful and remote wilderness areas in Hornstrandir. The trail is approximately 15 km (9.3 mi) long and takes around 6-8 hours to complete, depending on individual pace and trail conditions.
The trail starts at sea level at Hornvik and reaches a high point of approximately 700 meters (2,296 ft) at Álfsfell. The path starts by taking hard right at the Hornvik camping area going along the beach in the exact opposit direction of the Horn. The trail should for the most part be relatively clear as you will start by walking on the beach around the outermost cliffs of the right-most part oft he peninsula. For the first few hour or two after this, the trail will still be relatively simple to follow as there should not be much overgrowth near the beach.
During this early part of the journey there is a portion of the trail that required scaling a (very small 4-5 meter) steep hill that on the decent flowed with water. The climb was made with the assistance of a thick rope that was permanently affixed to the rocks above.
Likewise the trail path may be in better or worse conditions due to the weather. Because there had been a lot of rain shortly before our arrival, some portions of the trail that where narrower and nearer to cliffs had collapsed and required us to make jumps across meters wide gaps over the cliffs.
After going up the peninsula cliffs you will start moving inland and towards the mountain pass that separates you from the southern side of the nature reserve which is where you will find Álfsfell.
The walk towards the mountain pass is relatively simple, the trail itself isnt always well marked, especially if the vegetation has grown over the paths. Sometimes we found crossing or splitting trails that caused some confusion on which of these paths is ours and eventually leads to the pass. Most of the paths lead in the relative same direction towards the mountain range so there isn't a great risk in your choice though take your time and make sure your not veering off too much or getting back on the correct path might require some back tracking which happened to us once or twice.
We highly recommend going over your intended path beforehand on a map that can be bought for cheap at the tourist center and validating your location via google maps or other GPS applications in case you are unsure.
The way to the mountain base itself is beautiful, lush and green and offers many small streams you can drink the crystal clear and clean waters originating from the many Icelandic glaciers. We recommend you bring a water bottle, though many people walking these trails bring only small cups with which to drink from these streams.
You will know you are nearing the mountain pass itself once the trail begins to incline. The journey up is moderate requiring technical knowledge though depending on the weather you may find you have very few places to rest and shelter since there are no trees or larger rock formations to block the wind.
Along the way you will see Rujums which are large piles of stones erected by the rangers working at the reserve. These Rujums are way markers and help guide and mark the trail in areas where the terrain is too rocky or where smaller flags will eventually be blown away during rain and wind.
When reaching the pass, especially towards the end of summer you may encounter areas with ice and fog. Extra caution is advised as these make falling or becoming lost a much greater risk.
You will know you made it across the pass once you reach the top and can see the entire nature reserve to the other side of it. The mountain range splits the Hornstrandir reserve down its center and offers an astounding view of Icelands most untouched nature.
From the pass its going to be mostly down hill until Álfsfell. The way directly after the pass was very steep and narrow with many smaller stones and slippery surfaces which made the going slower and took a lot of time, though there weren't any technical portions in that path and just taking our time got us down the zigzagging path safe and unharmed. Some areas may be steeper than others but the path is well marked and you will see the Álfsfell camping area well in advanced.
Álfsfell itself is smaller camping ground than Hornvik and sits by the ocean and right after crossing a small stream. Its a great place to breath, enjoy the cold refreshing water and with lunch spot some curious wolf cubs and Puffins.
When crossing any streams, try and asses their current and depth before heading in. We advise taking the time to remove you shoes and socks, rolling up or taking off your pants to cross the stream. Its cold and takes some more time and effort but makes sure you can dry up and continue walking without wet shoes and soggy pants. Due to Icelands cold weather, if you don’t luck out on hotter sunnier days, anything wet or moist will stay that way until you leave the reserve. We got to enjoy a light drizzle that followed us the entire three day journey, leaving us for the most part lightly wet the entire way. Even then, we had a great time, got used to that state of wet-ness and made the best of it enjoying the warmth from exercising and talking about all the hot showers we would take once we get back.
Day 3
Álfsfell to Hesteyri
The trail from Álfsfell to Hesteyri is approximately 18 km (11 mi) long and takes around 6-8 hours to complete.
For the most part the trail is well marked with Rujums. The ground itself for most of the trail was much rockier and covered in part with sharp stones that made walking uncomfortable as opposed to the softer earth before the pass.
Along the way we encountered a splendid view of the gorges created by the glaciers that form towards the ocean and cut a path through the earth at winter.
The road to Hesteyri was breath taking. Spanning a number of inclines and declines though mostly headed uphill. The trail starts at an elevation of 700 meters (2,296 ft) at Álfsfell and reaches a high point of approximately 800 meters (2,624 ft) before descending to Hesteyri, which is at sea level.
Hesteyri itself compared to Hornvik and Álfsfell is actually a very small village more than a camping ground. It has some houses that people live in, some of which even offer food and drink (at cost) to travelers hiking in the area.
The Hesteyri camping ground was located at the edge of town nearer the ocean. The path to the camp took us beyond most of the villages homes and a small local graveyard to a location you will recognize thanks to the signs, the sink and the flat bare ground for tents making it as the travelers camp ground.
Hesteyri has a small dock which will be where the boat transport will dock and pick you up the next morning. Note that the dock and the camping area are not adjacent so make sure to not sleep in so you don't miss the boat.
Day 4
Ferry Hesteyri to ísafjörður
The boat transport back to ísafjörður should arrive during the morning hours (will change depending on schedule and weather though our boat arrive at around 10:30AM. Don't be afraid if they are a little later than originally planned since they need to make stops along a number of additional pickup/drop-off locations on the way.
This will mark the end of your journey. The way back is just as full of amazing views of the cliffs and birds of the Hornstrandir reserve.
Equipment and Preparations
When planning a multi-day trek in Iceland, it is important to come prepared with the necessary gear, clothing, and equipment. Iceland in general is a very cold country, make sure to wear layers, bring good equipment and always prepare for rain.
Some of the essential items to bring include:
Proper footwear - Hiking boots or trail shoes with good traction and support. We recommend hiking shoes lined with waterproof material such as Gortex.
Warm and waterproof clothing: Layering is key in Iceland, as weather can change quickly. Some of the items we recommend to bring are:
A thermal base layer (shirt + pants)
A regular day to day hiking layer (shirt + pants more suited for day to day hiking)
A warmer windproof layer (a windproof jacket)
A water resistant layer (a raincoat and water resistant pants)
A warm hat / a neck warmer than can double as a hat
If you are prone to cold then we would recommend bringing gloves
Backpack: A comfortable and durable backpack that can hold all of your gear.
Hiking sticks
Sleeping gear: A good quality sleeping bag and a sturdy tent or bivy sack that can withstand wind and rain. Note that sometimes it can be very windy and the cold at night can reach freezing temperatures even during the summer so its important to bring gear that will keep you warm and dry (make sure your tent has anchors and your sleeping bag is rated for cold weather)
Food and water: Bring enough food to last the duration of your stay. You will most likely not have any place to buy food once at the nature reserve. Water you will have in abundance though we do recommend bringing at least a bottle for parts of the trail such as the mountain passes where you may go some time without access to streams. Make sure to bring light food that is simple to prepare and easy to consume snacks along the way that contains salts and electrolytes.
Ways to prepare food and bring discarded food with you - a burner and a gas canister, a spork and a foldable or lightweight pot to make food. There are no places to throw garbage at the reserve so make sure you bring a garbage bag with you and leave the area as you arrived.
Navigation: A map and compass, and a GPS device or a mobile phone with GPS capabilities and a power bank.
Emergency and first aid kit: A basic first aid kit, a headlamp and a signaling device such as a whistle. We also recommend having basic sewing kit from a single spool of thread and a needle for treks longer than a day.
Personal hygiene items: Sunscreen, insect repellent, and personal hygiene items. You will not have an opportunity to shower in anything but non freezing water so shampoos and such will not be necessary.
A camera
It's also recommended to check the forecast, and the trail condition before starting your hike, and to inform someone of your plans, and leave an itinerary of your trip. It's also important to follow the Leave No Trace principles, to minimize the impact on the environment.
Best Food to Bring
When planning a multi-day trek in Iceland, it's important to bring food that is lightweight, non-perishable, and easy to prepare. Here are some options for food to bring on your trek:
Dehydrated or freeze-dried meals: These are lightweight and easy to prepare, and are available in a variety of flavors.
Energy bars and trail mix: These are a convenient and easy-to-carry source of energy.
Jerky and dried fruits: These are lightweight and provide a good source of protein and carbohydrates.
Instant oatmeal, instant rice, and instant potatoes: These are easy to prepare, lightweight, and provide a good source of carbohydrates.
Peanut butter, Nutella, and honey: These are a good source of energy and can be used as a spread on crackers or bread.
Make sure any food you bring is light in weight and high in nutritional value and salts. We also recommend not bringing any food that might require long cooking time since even during the summer months it is possible to encounter heavy rains, especially at the evenings and night which could limit the availability of using a burner.
Wildlife
The Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, located in the far northwest of Iceland, is home to a variety of wildlife. Some of the wildlife that can be seen in the area include:
Seabirds: Hornstrandir is home to a large number of seabirds, including puffins, guillemots, kittiwakes, and skuas. The best time to see puffins is from May to August.
Arctic Foxes: The Hornstrandir is one of the few places in Iceland where Arctic Foxes can be seen in the wild. They are elusive and hard to spot, but with patience and a bit of luck, you may be able to see one.
Whales: The waters around Hornstrandir are home to a variety of whales, including humpbacks, minke, and even orcas. The best time to see whales is from June to August.
Reindeer: Reindeer were introduced to the Hornstrandir in the 1950s, and their population has thrived in the area. They are generally seen in higher elevations, and best time to see them is from June to August.
Seal: Common seals and harbor seals are also found around Hornstrandir and can be spotted from the shore or on boat tours.
It's important to remember that wildlife in the area is wild and should be respected and observed from a safe distance. It's also important to be aware of the rules and regulations regarding wildlife viewing in the area, and to not disturb or harass any animals you encounter.
Is It Worth It?
The Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is one of the most amazing places we have been blessed to travel in. Its views are one of a kind and the simple presence it has is enough to make the journey well worth it. Although it may be at times harder and less accommodating, we highly recommend this trek hope it will bring you found memories, amazing experiences and jaw dropping pictures!